THE BEURRE REVIEW

Beurre has been saved on my “Restaurants-To-Explore” list for a while now. The pandemic didn’t help. But when the country reopened dining-out on a Monday last week, Beurre came to mind immediately. I’ve had enough of home cooked and local food. So, European and Asian flavors sounded very ideal.

We arrived earlier than booked and were greeted with much enthusiasm. Its been a month and I think everyone is happy and excited to bounce back to work! Our server, Samantha, was friendly, polite and knowledgeable. We took in everything she recommended, and just sat back and waited to be fed!

Though there was a happy hour promo on raw oysters, I couldn’t take my eyes off the Chef Special Oyster. This was presented in its shell atop a bed of crushed ice. It was dressed in vinaigrette and paired with ikura, aged parma ham and honey granita. My mouth waters as I type honey granita, recalling the icy cold sweet slush plopped over the oyster. I always love a dollop of sorbet in my oyster, so this was totally up my alley. It tasted good; the honey granite was just sweet enough; the vinaigrette was very subtle. And while the ikura added tiny salty bursts, I can’t help but wonder if they had forgotten the parma ham?

The Housemade Umami Butter (served with flatbread) was not what I’d expected upon savoring the slight warm spiciness in the butter. Personally I don’t detect the “umami”, but that aside, it was still quite palatable. And I bet this little spicy kick in the butter is a hit with many Singaporeans who are die-hard spicy fans.

In Forest Mushrooms, an array of chopped up mushrooms sit overflowing in a fried wonton-skin-like pastry cup. This was accompanied by a milky leek sauce which complimented the woody mushrooms very nicely. A pile of shredded yam (? I’m guessing) crisps showered the dish. Granting, those lovely crisps completed the overall aesthetics; also, who does not love extra crunch? But for me, the tender mushrooms, the crispy pastry cup, and a swipe of that fragrant leek sauce were pretty much did the job.

It was a close fight between the Cold Truffle Scallops Glass Noodles and the Deep Sea Argentinean Prawns; but the latter won with no regrets whatsoever. The Ménage à trois of delicate prawns arrive neatly pressed against each other, the fried prawn heads looking very promising! Of course we couldn’t wait to bite into them and of course they delivered beyond our expectations. Perfectly seasoned and fried to a beautiful crunch, texture and color, yet without the slightest bitterness and greasiness that sometimes accompany deep fried foods. T’was a good head start! The shelled prawns were quick-dipped in a blend of warm garlic oil and lobster emulsion, giving the meat just a hint of aroma. It looked and tasted almost raw to me, but according to the chef, it is a good 70% cooked! I’m still trying to grasp that as I relive it now! Anyhow, cooked or not, it was an incredible prawn. Sweet and meltingly smooth in the mouth, with soft flavor from the creamy oil just caressing the meat. This was Perfect!

The last time I had escargot was before Covid-19 struck. So picking this next dish was a no-brainer. Black Truffle Escargots got’em little snails cooked in a rich brown butter truffle sauce. Like the Forest Mushrooms, a pile of crispies (this time, potato) was set over the shelled escargots. Kudos! Cuz frankly… who’s got time for slippery shells and tiny forks and the world’s most awkward tongs! Amongst the snails, you’ll find pieces of bacon adding bite and saltiness. The snails were a good size and every plump morsel oozed flavor from the creamy brown sauce. While the potato crisps added bite to the whole experience, I thought it was a tad overwhelming for the already very full-bodied dish. I felt they were a little greasy too. So that didn’t help. Still… I get where those potato crisps were heading but perhaps less is more?

We didn’t need much convincing when it came to the main course.  And it seemed the rest of the patrons that evening felt likewise. Stuffed Black Chickens flew out of the open kitchen one after another. And though the fanfare presentation was way less exciting than what I had expected and witnessed on social media, the final product did not disappoint. I’ve always eaten black chicken in Chinese tonic soups and a few times, simply salted and deep fried. Beurre’s version is far from anything I’ve experienced. The bird is stuffed with glutinous rice and foie gras, flavored with truffle, lard and its own chicken jus. The chicken is presented on a rack over a bed of aromatics which the server goes on to blaze with a blow torch. The smoke rises upwards, swathing the very charred chicken, very black chicken. The chicken returns to the kitchen where the chef halves it before it’s brought back to our table. And what laid before was the most impeccably stuffed bird I’ve laid eyes on! The black, scrawny de-boned chick had crisp skin and not a whole lotta meat. But whatever meat that’s on it was very tender, flavorsome and juicy. That was further enhanced with soft (but not mushy) savory glutinous rice and a princely slab of foie gras. Portion a bit of everything on your fork, followed by a good dip into the brown sauce, and take it all in in one mouthful. A mouthful indeed yet everything astoundingly works out as planned. The creaminess of the goose liver melts while the truffle flavors your mouth amidst the savory chicken and sauce, with the rice balancing everything out. Don’t be deceived by the size of the bird, this is a heavy dish; and unless you’re a super duper big eater, it feeds 2 adults substantially. Needless to say, I was as stuffed as that chicken when I was done!

Beurre is located along Bukit Pasoh, a street that houses some of the most well-preserved and beautiful shophouses in Singapore. It is modestly decked out. A long row of tables overlooking the open kitchen lines one wall as you come through the Asian Peranakan style entrance.  This leads to a slightly larger space at the end that provides more privacy if that’s what you’re after. Nothing over the top adorns the restaurant but despite its simplicity, it is quite comfortable. As the restaurant name applies, butter is very much a starring ingredient here in the Beurre kitchen. And who doesn’t love a bitta butter?

RESTAURANT BEURRE @ 23 Bukit Pasoh, Singapore 089837 Phone: +65 9660 0597

Disclaimer- This is not a sponsored post!

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