Among the many restaurants I have been recommended, and visited during my trip to Croatia, one particular one stood out from the rest. Not because it had any sort of rating on the Michelin Guide; nor was it mentioned to me; and it has minimal social media exposure. If you’re wondering how the restaurant found a place in my heart and memory? Well… it was my curiosity, which has paid off, once again!

On our drive from Zagreb to Split, I had spotted from afar, an obscurely basic restaurant sign along the highway, and in a moment’s notice, decided we were hungry and should stop for lunch. I was sent to check Teta Olga out, to make sure it’s a decent place, before the entire family headed in. I walked down some cold tiled steps onto an empty open terrace. Peeked through a creaky old wooden door, and although the scene that greeted me was an immediate “yes”, I wasn’t sure the rest of the family would feel the same. Long story short, we went ahead, and it turned out to be one of, if not THE BEST meal of our 11-day Croatia road trip.

Teta Olga had recently celebrated her 55th year cooking typisch Dalmatian homestyle food for folks in the area and beyond. The restaurant was filled with a rambunctious crowd, happily tucking into their food, exchanging vivacious stories, enjoying laughs and puffing away cigarettes all at the same time! I’ve not eaten at a smoke-filled restaurant in many years, and it took a while to “climatize“! So be warned!

Service was decently friendly, despite the slight language barrier. The restaurant appears to specialize in seafood since the city is surrounded by the Adriatic sea. So, naturally, fish was in order. Besides the sole and grey mullet, we also ordered frog legs, done 2 ways. Our orders were served altogether on a big platter. As plain as it seemed, it was an exhilarating sight! The first whiffs of smokey aromas filled the air. The color and char on the flame grilled fish was evidence of a good meal to come.

The mullet had firm white flesh, its skin yielded a slight crisp as you bite into it. The flesh was sweet and fresh, and needed nothing more than the twist of lemon juice laid upon it. We cleaned it to the bones!

The sole fish was one of the best I’ve had, ever. Nothing fancy.. just simple salt & pepper for seasoning, then pan fried to spot-on doneness. Crisp on the outside, with buttery soft flesh that scraped off the bone with a gentle touch. Absolutely wonderful!

We ordered 2 portions of frog legs, done 2 different ways. The fried legs had a light crunchy egg batter. And who doesn’t love a crunchy batter? One that’s seasoned beautifully too, as it turned out. The crust was eggy and airy, and it wrapped around the sweet, soft, albeit little, frog’s meat like a warm blanket. A very delicious combination of crunch and tenderness. I see why our server highly recommended it. The grilled ones were nothing short of amazing either. Grilled as perfectly as the fish. It was juicy as hell, with an amazing oily, herbaceous smokiness to it. I’m never been more proud of myself for being greedy and ordering two portions of these delicious froggies! They are the restaurant’s specialties, together with the grilled eels, which I’m totally kicking myself now for not getting!!

We got a bottle of their local wine and truth be told, Croatian wines are truly delicious. I highly recommend drinking lotsa Croatian wine while you’re in the country.

The restaurant sits quietly along the highway. It’s unpretentious, run-down facade is easy to miss. So keep an eye out if you’re gonna go there. From the road level, we walked down a few steps leading to an unattended terrace, which I assume would likely be popular in summer months. Push open a visibly aged wooden door into the smoky restaurant bearing furnishings that are undoubtedly as old as the establishment.

Out on the terrace, by a corner, an open fire pit burns steadily and quietly in the cold pre-winter temperatures. That’s where our meats were patiently cooked a burly gentleman, patiently turning fish, skillfully controlling heat, one little chip at a time, with a cigarette between his lips, no less! Unlike most Croatians I’ve met, he readily smiled at the camera and encouraged me to go closer for better pictures! That was nice..!

Though service was kind enough, don’t be expecting 5-star treatment. My advice though, just roll with it! The food makes up for the tacky tablecloths, basic service and less than desired secondhand smoke environment!

The restaurant was opened by a loving husband for his wife, Olga. Thus the name, which translates to Aunt Olga, as she’s affectionately known. The new owners have continued the traditional cooking and though there were some rather unfavorable reviews on Trip Advisor, I am glad I was there on a good day for a good experience.

Teta Olga will be first on my list, if I am ever coming back to Split, and I wish it another 55 years of unchanged style and identity til we meet again! And I will, I promise, get the eels then!

Restoran Teta Olga @ Mostina, 20343, Rogotin, Croatia. Phone: +385 98 956 4904

Disclaimer – This is not a sponsored post!